New York Fashion Week - Day 2The second day of runway shows in New York City opened with the usual C

New York Fashion Week - Day 2The second day of runway shows in New York City opened with the usual Concept Korea event, three designers from the Asian country showing their collections to an international audience. I was pretty stunned by the polished, sleek and minimal looks presented by the brand LEYII and especially from the menswear collection of Beyond Closet (photo 1). This joyful new wardrobe for the man of today was full of prints, which I was glad to see as it’s so difficult to find good ones for men. But there were also furry coats and pullovers - I’ve already said some weeks ago, I guess for the Menswear collections in London and Milan, that I want one.Charlotte Ronson went very wearable, it was more of a spring collection than fall, but it was a pleasing view after all. Cream-coloured pieces paired with Tiffany blue complements were made of leather and chiffon, which made everything look extremely light. Knitwear was instead everywhere in Ryan Roche’s collection (photo 2): models were covered by it from head to toe, with scarves, pullovers, knitted dresses. Colours were neuter, cream, beige, grey, black. Loved the bohemian vibe of it all and I was completely in love with the back showing in the look which you can see in the photo.Kate Spade New York showed us how to choose wearable clothes without giving up on cockiness. I usually love the collections where it seems young girls are playing being adults, and this was one of them. Perfectly balanced between playfulness and sophistication. Tanya Taylor (photo 3) likes playing with prints and from the revisitation of pied-de-poule in the first looks to the optical checks of the following dresses everything was a feast for the eye.Zimmermann (photo 4) delivered a collection which was 70s without being too rock'n'roll; it was boho chic without being hippie; it was mature without looking old. Everything exuded luxury, the silhouettes gave the body an elongated shape and cool accessories - like the mounty hats - were the perfect companion for such high quality fashion.I wasn’t sure about Jason Wu’s collection (photo 5) but I think it’s right to give him a shot, at least for going so minimal. There were some looks - like the one I chose for this review - which really looked like there wasn’t anything about the design process; but after you see dozens of collections you realise that there’s always a great deal of thought behind what you’re seeing, and you also realise the simplest pieces are usually the hardest to conceive. Even more if they look beautiful like they did on Jason Wu’s catwalk. Even more if the materials used are definitely deluxe quality: shiny silk in bronze tones, croco leather and soft fur - even if, as usual, I would have done without it. Sally LaPointe had a nice collection, and it was a pity that the second part went so boring after all, because the first half, with all those cuts and bits and pieces, had a nice movement and a interesting new point of view on fashion. Cynthia Rowley decided for this season to show her collection through a video, and I don’t think it was a particularly successful decision, even if her collection wasn’t bad at all. I always love her looks and I think what really distinguishes her is the graphic quality of her prints. Of course this aspect wasn’t missing in this collection either, but the video didn’t allow to capture the details through photos, and something went lost in the process. Colours were toned-down and a little bit darker than usual, but after all it’s a fall collection. Yet, the playfulness was there and I’m always amazed at how she manages to keep things down-to-earth without becoming boring.There was a mix of everything is cool at the moment in Cushnie et Ochs collection: new geometrical necklines, deep cleavages, materials borrowed from activewear mixed to velvet or fur. A total collection wanting to satisfy every taste. M Missoni (photo 6) was the real showstopper for the day. I was surprised because I usually find Missoni very similar in every collection, but for their young line this was probably the best collection I’ve seen so far. It was definitely inspired by China - the Mandarin gown closure for one of the looks was enought to understand - but it was modern, kind of technologic, with straight lines, subtly fading colours and armour-like structures. Just divine.Rodebjer (photo 7) went very dark in some way - and the half moon on some of the models’ forehead was a sort of arcane symbol in this sense - which made it the more fascinating. Interesting fabric choice - especially the wrinkled black leather - but of course it seems obvious to me that the most exciting part was about the structured peek-a-boo coats - which were actually doing everything except what coats are for: covering the body. Pure beauty.Adam Selman (photo 8) sent down the runway the models in that hairstyle which makes you immediately think of Amy Winehouse. Yet, the overall atmosphere of the collection clashed with the figure of the beloved singer: the ‘Spoiled’ writing on one of the tops said it all. In fact, Amy Winehouse was just in the hair, and even if you searched for her in the details, the only thing you could recognise was her badass attitude, this time translated into a feminine, cocky girl wearing bows and bon-ton coats.Comfy and soft were the first words that came to my mind while watching Novis collection (photo 9). And it’s immediate when you have an entire collection made of plaid, soft wool and long head-to-toe coats. Colours were amazingly bright as well as amazingly subtle - nothing was too much in-your-face. One thing I didn’t like: stilettos in different colours. That was a no no.Suno (photo 10) closed the day in a subtly psychedelic way: I know, it’s a contradiction, but I couldn’t find any other effective phrase to describe this brilliant collection, where black was the main colour but stripes and flowers in neon tones went to adorn long formless dresses, glossy overcoats and warm pullovers. xxx -- source link

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