dddots: Endpaper Challenge #3 This endpaper method is all too familiar for me. It is a binding I oft

dddots: Endpaper Challenge #3 This endpaper method is all too familiar for me. It is a binding I often teach in my Bookbinding Beginner’s Course as the Multi-section flat back case binding. In Arthur Johnson’s Manual of Bookbinding, it is described as: “The cheapest and weakest, 3, is not sewn but tipped on the section for 3mm. All publishers’ edition bindings have this endpaper.” I do agree that this is a very common method of attaching endpapers for commercially made books. By far, it is used for about 98% of the books I receive for restoration or repairs. By teaching this method, students will understand the fundamentals of the modern book, knowing how to build it from scratch, and if they encounter any problems, they are able to trace back their steps and identify where the issues might be. Unfortunately for this binding method, the tipped on endpaper is usually far stronger than the paper, causing most books to break at the fold of the endpaper. Many times when I pull a modern book, the biggest damage I get is the area where the endpaper is tipped on at the first folio of the first section. Moreover the adhesive used today is often very unforgiving and harsh.  However, despite its slight inferiority, this method is quick and strong, if the choice of paper for the endpaper is selected wisely, in the correct grain direction and the case is put in with utmost care.  For this binding, I was inspired by Percy, who not only binds books, but is also a paper cut artist. I have chosen to cut out an Asanoha pattern on the book cloth, revealing the same red paper that I laminated on the front board, to match the endpapers of the book. This book has a feathery paper for its textblock, is signed, numbered and dated. This book is 13(W) x 16.7(H) x 1.8(T)cm and is for sale at USD50 or SGD55 (excluding shipping). -- source link

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